Majolka

First was the warm up, Snoopy :)

 

Starting in Alf, 7c.

Last moves of Alf.

Gaddem make it happen haha,on the top of Alf you have a no hand to compose yourself.

Looking at a shallow mono,starting to get serious!

Same move,really bad sidepull and a ton of body tension.

Sticking the mono and going for the pinch,have to make a lot of foot movements on small footholds.

Showing the middle finger to the wall as you go into a mono undercling :D 

Air Jordan? nono...Air Varga! haha, this move from the mono undercling and the next are the cruxes, if I was 1cm smaller I probbably wouldnt be able to do it,foothold for the right foot is the worst one I have ever steped on in my life to make such a move!

Repeating some history :)

Hey guys!
Rock climbing has been the name of the game for the past days and I have visited quite some crags including Osp,Pod kapelco,Ter and Pod reško planino.

First was Kapelca, a nice bouldering place that I visited with Karel and we were syked to try some bouldery lines on cristally granite tipe of rock that brutalized our baby plastic skin, but we managed to climb some lines and the one that stood out the most was Feminist, a nice crimpy line with a powerfull move from a not so bad crimp to the sloppery edge, you can see the video of my ascent on my Facebook profile :)

              Taking care of baby skin :D

Moving on, next destination was Osp, I was climbing there with Miha and we decided to go to sector Nad vasjo which came out as a great decision because we had it all for ourselves while the upper sectors were completely crowded,including with American superstar Linn Hill :)
We warmed up and then I went to try a not so climbed route in Osp called Gad, it's a vertical and slightly slabby 8a that is super cool to climb on, a fizical lower part and a delicate upper part made it one of the best routes I've ever climbed :)
Did it on my second try and then it was time to try Karies, a 8b that both of us had a plan to try and on my second go that day I managed to get the ascent, Miha was very close so fingers crossed for you man! :D

              Weather was great!! :D

And last but definitely not least, there was Ter, and there was Reška.

Ter is one of those climbing crags that I will call my second home this year, so when I went to check it out (I was just too nostalgic since it was like forever since my last visit) I couldn't really explain to myself how this place brought such a big smile on my face, I knew that Im not gonna be climbing on it that day cuz it was freezing, but just to see it again and touch some holds was just like waaaaaaaaaa :D

                                  *.*

After my little reunion, Andro,Karel and me went to check out the masterpiece of Erih Obrez Pod reško planino, I've tryed it already last year but the sun and warm temps made it impossible to climb, so I stoored it on the list of routes that are simply a must climb :)

Now the temps were perfect and I did it in two parts, falling on the last hard move that day. To introduce it a little bit, it's far from a tipical sport climbing route that are "popular" these days, it is rather a old school route with an angle of around 87°, a slab, that has small holds, and some very very bad footholds on which you have to perform with perfection, because perfection and accuracy are a must have in this route.

I came back with Andro the next day and the wind was blowing a bit,temps were great and I was just like: I'll just go for it, the first part is around 7a+, that was my warm up, then you stand on a ledge where you can warm up your fingers,clean your shoes and empty your mind...and then its around 7 meters of game on! :)

I am really really happy for this ascent, as far as I know, only Erih climbed it, and now, after quite some years it got the first repeat with the confirmation of the proposed grade 8a :D

            Andro resting in the crux part :)

New year, new mindset?

Hey guys, it's been a while :)
New year has attacked full on and Im confident that you have already started doing whatever you have to do to accomplish your goals.
A lot happened, not just in climbing but also in life, celebrating new year was something incredible and I'll never forget it (as much as I remeber it haha).

But everything of the above can't compare to what happened today. Sunny day, melting snow, Kotečnik on my mind,ofkors :)

I made a couple of phone calls if anyone wants to join me in Trapez but no one had time. Trapez is a sector that is oriented completely on the sunny side, it was sooo nice, as soon as I arrived on the parking and saw that no one is here I was really surprised and imediately an idea that was born at home came alive!

Sun warming up the rock! :)

Free soloing is something I really admire and have a big respect to the people who have a strong enough mind to pull it off.
You must understand that I did this only for myselve and for non other, I've been thinking and dreaming of it for a very long time and I wasn't really confident that I'll ever be able to do it, so it was a waiting game, waiting for that perfect moment when the mind is clear enough and everything else seems perfect.
The dream route is called Yeti, its 30m long and graded 7b+, slightly slabby and it has some of the most horrible foot holds that you can get. And that's exactly why it was such a big deal.
For warm up I just climbed around a bit and then I tied into a rope and kindda freesoloed Rebus, it was a really big satisfaction cuz at the very top you have to stand on some sloppy footholds and do quite long static moves.
But that wasnt IT, I repeled down had a sip of Enervit and went on the top of the crag to brush the holds. While doing that I keept telling myselve "I dont have to go for it, Im just cleaning it so that if something happens I'll have clean holds under my fingers and feet".
I tried the crux for two times on tope rope and then I just said a statement from a song that I remembered, it goes like this: enough with waiting,anticipating time for action, time for action!
In one moment I was cleaning the rubber on my shoes,the other moment I was on the wall, soloing something so sketchy that the last time I climbed it I said to myselve "no way,you won't,its just too much".  But there I was,standing on shit and making shore that I grabed each hold just right. And as far as I know I did fine, except for that one moment where I kicked my right foot with the left and it almost went off the foothold,luckily it was the best one in the crux part :)
I had my harness on with a grigri,cuz topping out and walking down would be suicide that I wasnt prepared to do, it bothers me a bit cuz it wasnt 100% pure, but it's kindda the same,one mistake and your gone for good.
When I climbed it.......I cant find the words to express my satisfaction. All I can say is that it was definitely worth taking such a risk! :D

Peace in me restored, moving on :D

A bit of everything!

Sunny day everyone! :)

Since the last post soo many things happened that I don't really know where to start, so I'm just gonna tell you the ones that were the most exciting to me.

Let's start with some unfinished busynes in Retovje,more specificaly with a route called Palačinka that I mentioned in one of the previous posts. Got some great news about it,the unfinished busynes got finished in style haha.

I climbed the route in my second visit on my second try which in totall means seven and because I really didn't had to fight hard  to do it I think it's 8b+, but a soft one. Anyway the video should be out shortly,for real this time.

Next stop is Osp. I went there to visit good friends Vladi and Simona and they're dog Varja as they were enjoying the deserved hollidays :) On the first day I managed to climb Matičkov svet in Osp which is graded 8b and I managed to do it secong go. I also tryed Osapski pajek 8c but was too tyred to do it.

In the evening we went to Dekatlon to see if we had any money to spent :P And I ended up buying a inflating mattres on which I sleept thru the night :) The cooking was phenomenal and I really enjoyed the time that I spent there. The next day we went to Mišja peč and after a poor start in the Osp in the morning I collected myself together and flashed Sonce v očeh 8a+,I knew one move so for me it was 3/4 on sight :) I did onsighted Chiquita 8a and tryed my luck also in the extension which is 8b but failed not far from the anchor. 

In Sonce v očeh:)

And in Chiquita.

Another good weeked was when Nejc and me went to Čreta on Saturday and I did Milf hunter 7c+ second go and finally figuerd out the beta for Game of Thrones 8b,could have done it in the same day but rope got caught in my knee and prevented from turning it so I wasnt able to do the full rotation and fell. We were back the next day and I did it first go and was even putting the draws during the ascent,that made me feel strong haha :)

We had some fog :P

Bohinjska bela,the old one,got a visit by me and Nejc yet again but the conditions don't seem to be cooperating with us. Sun was shining and it made the polished cripms and footholds impossible to hold on to. Anyhow I did a very good on-sight attempt in Literarni nokturno 8a where I fell three moves below the anchor because I didn't saw a hold fast enough..so I had to do it on my second try :)

Last but not least was Črni kal that we visited nad I was there for the first time,routes that I did where all very nice,it's a nice place in general, but very crowdy.

I did JJJ a 27m long 8a that was bolted in the year 2003 for the event Memorial Janeza Jegliča Johana,that's why the route is called JJJ. Thanks Miha for the explanation :D I managed to do it on-sight and I'm damn proud on that!

a nice good bye sunset:)

Some more climbing will be happening for sure so stay tuned and enjoy the sunny weather while it lasts!! :D see ya

Sunny weekend!!!

Haudy folks:)

The sun became a bit less shy in the past days but unfortunatelly rain still rules these lands.

And if it doesn't rain,the water that is left behind,caught on trees,buildings and especially rocks can not be dryed out by the sun and wind in the right time...but if the will is strong,rock doesn't need to be completely dry:)

Autumn is showing it's brown face already.

On saturday I went to Ožbalt to get a bit of granite under my fingers and I really got what I wanted,maybe a bit too much perhaps haha:)

I warmed up on some easy but beautiful bolders and then I tryed Supaplex sit,but it was way too hot for those small crimps,after that I went to the Ramadan block and meet a cool guy Marko who was also trying hard on some stuff,so we teamed up but the holds were damped and did not allow serious pulling.

Tepms came down a bit so we decided to go to Supaplex again but it was no different than before...I did managed to flash the stand start of it...at least something,but a new friendship counts too :D

Yesterday Nejc and I went to a climbing area called Snovik,a nice place with two harder routes,366 dni graded 8a and Krvavi pajek 8b/b+. The first one I managed to on sight despite the wet first part,but luckilly the crux was dry and so was the top...more or less :)

Pajek didn't want to give in,the entire undercling was wet and as it happens to be that that is the crux...it was not the best combination,but it's a nice route and I'll return to do it when it dryes out :)

A nice orange wall is certanly worth visiting.

It's magic! :P

Resting after the crux:)

After the climbing part,Terme Snovik were on our minds and I was planing a much needed rest day and a hot jacuzzi seemed like a nice start,and it really felt like heaven :D

Im just taking it easy now,sipping some tea and waiting for better conditions,can't wait for them:)

Yummy:D

A reminder that sunny days exist :D see ya!

The Osp mini trip

Wazzap folks!

Don't blame me for not writting anything for such a long time,blame the weather and it's rainy days :) I don't wanna writte something that has no meaning or is just something boring without a story so for that reason I didn't wrote anything for the past to much time :P

But finally things are looking brighter and sunnyer for at least a couple of days,and thats very good news for me.

Since the rain prevented me from climbing what I wished to climb I was mainly living on plastic and I bolted some new Morpho holds on our boulder wall,they are great and I love them haha:)

Our boulder wall:)

 Anyway,I was able to get some rock under my fingers and some dirt under my feet,gotta love the filling! 

I went to Retovje,a crag near Ljubljana where a special route found it's place,and that is Palačinka (Pancake).

It's a old route bolted and first ascented by Aljoša Grom,a slovenian climbing legend and competitor. And that adds a bit more to the route itselve:)

Well,to tell you all,its not as horrible as it looks,a smooth gently overhanging face that too many climbers just refuse to try because of its look. The crux I had no problem doing,exually I warmed up on it after doing one 6b that is just next to it,the last move was kindda akward but I know why I wasnt successful,no pressure,I know I will do it without any problems when I return:)

Now back to the point of this post. The Osp mini trip began with Jernej,Eva and me in Celje. We picked up our amigo Izi in Lj and off we went to sunnier and DRYER rocks. The cave of Osp was our decision and it was a good one:)

The cave from inside out:)

Routes here are super long,based mostly on endurance.

They are indeed nice and if you like tuffas this is the place for you! I managed to onsight Active discharge graded 8a,also Bizi onsighted this one and clamed his first 8a OS:) I also went for extension which is 8b+ and fell 4 moves before a good rest,then you have some easyer climbing to the top,bummer,but what can we do, this is onsighting :P

I also tryed Osapska pošat but a bird was just nesting on one of the crushal holds and I had no right to desterve it,it was here way before us so I left it at peace. (Please just choose another route if this happens to you).

On second day of the trip,me and Kruder went for a multi pich route called Vražji Robert,graded 8b or 8b+,depends on how you do it...

It was my first multipich route and I must say that when bolts are replaced with old iron spikes,you become a bit less brave and bolt haha,a nice experience and I definetly want more of them!

The line,we did al the moves and linked it in two parts,will have to return!:)

Now I have a plan that I wanna do,it's quite a big one and I really hope I can do it! But im not telling it just yet,I can only tell you guys that I am determent that I will do it,and most importantly,im SYKED for it! Enjoy the sunny days while you can and keep on crushing!!!

A local on a local fruit says hi!:)

The wet season,not neccesseraly a bad season:)

Haudy folks!:D

So in the past days the weather here was just shitty and it almost looked like it's not gonna stop raining,most local crags were damped down to the soil so I didn't have much to choose from.

In the search of dryer rocks, Croatia proved it selve and when Kruder asked the locals if the crag Pokojec is dry,the answer was just the one we wanted to hear!:)
I've never been there before and looking at the pictures on the net,it looked like a really nice place. So before I knew it,we were on our way and syked to touch some dry rocks!

Ofcoure we got a bit "lost" the gps took us into some pretty interesting streets and this one was steep as hell!:)

When we finally arrived,first the call of nature had to be answered and thank god for corn fields haha:)

"Water for picas"

A little bit of walking and we were able to see the trully amazing crags of Pokojec.

The actual path that leads to the crag is very nice but ofcourse we didn't know exactly where it goes so we made quite a trip out of it:) The style of climbing in the sector that we were at is very very specific and you only have pockets for one,two and ocasionaly for three fingers,the wall is slaby,vertical and in some parts a bit overhanging and onsighting is THE game up here. In the pockets there is just a bit of chalk or nothing at all and they are very hard to see so you gotta have some luck with you and fortunetly on this day, I had it!:)

After warming up on one 7a that has more monos that i've ever hold in my life Kruder and me did one 8a and my ligaments were kindda hurting cuz im not used of climbing only on pockets,so when Kruder was trying one 8b and got damn close to doing it second go I was just resting and then I wanted to try something. Friends told me to go for Maskirni keks, a 7c route that was bolted a loooong time ago by Slovenian legend Vili Guček. I went for it onsight and yeaaah I did it!

The next day Luka Tambača told me that they have been waiting for years for this onsight and that im the only one who has ever onsighted a 7c in Pokojec,and that made me feel very good cuz I didnt know that it was such a big deal.

THE slabs of Pokojec,awesome:)

The home crag that didnt dissapointed us was Ter,Rajko bolted another project that I cleaned some days before and it goes right in the middle of the 25m high wall. It's a route that I wanna do no mather what will take from me to do it!

The man,the line,the process!

Yesterday I did a FA of a project that is also very nice and it has a hard bouldery crux of 7 moves and hardcore body tension. After the big hollow jug broke off the route became easyer because two quite good holds apeared a bit lower so the grade of Melodija(Melody) is now a solid 8b. 

Thanks again Rajko for keeping us busy with all the hard routes! Respect:)